Editorial Note: Opinions and thoughts are the author’s own and not those of AFROTECH™.
The theme of the 2025 Met Gala was “Superfine: Tailoring Black Style”, particularly focused on Black dandyism. Guest Curator Monica L. Miller’s book, “Slaves to Fashion: Black Dandyism and the Styling of Black Diasporic Identity,” served as the primary inspiration for the exhibit. Black dandyism began in 18th century Britain, but its cultural movement took root in the early 20th century, in which Black people embodied the European sensibility through clothing as a form of self-expression. Emerging during a time when African Americans had little to no agency after the Emancipation Proclamation (1863), they used dandyism to address the erosion of their civil rights. The theme highly parallels the current fight to retain ownership and freedom during a divisive time in politics.
The 2025 Met Gala had Black male co-chairs for the first time in history, with celebrities A$AP Rocky, Lewis Hamilton, Colman Domingo, and Pharrell Williams, all of whom represent a modern take on the Black dandy. Perhaps the most prominent example of Black dandyism is the late great André Leon Talley, who passed away in 2022.
In the weeks leading up to the event, there had been a lot of excited chatter about this year’s gala being the Blackest yet. And there was indeed a flurry of Black stars and designers who not only showcased their art but also supported the Costume Institute, which raised the most money ever this year with $31 million. It’s not lost on me that the Black dandyism theme arrives during a time when the current presidential administration is working to erase DEI, whitewash history, and halt Black progress. Just as Black dandynism became the popular mode of self-expression when Black civil rights were being eroded post-emancipation, there is a resurgence to preserve Black art in its many forms as the Trump administration seeks to undermine it. Black culture has proven time and time again to be profitable for others, but not the actual people creating that culture.
As a fan of the Met Gala, I believe that its purpose is within the context of pop culture. And it’s exciting to witness Black art finally be revered and honored this way, despite how late it’s been. Yes, Black art should be celebrated, but what happens when the exhibit is over after a couple of months? It’s not enough for Black people to have visibility in these spaces without the infrastructure to support them. President Donald Trump’s attacks on diversity are an attack on the systems that make Black art possible. But many of these systems rely on federal funding and grants, which he has taken steps to eradicate. While the Met Gala receives funding for its institute, there is no other money being raised or programs erected to protect Black people from this administration. Black dandyism centers on the freedom of expression through clothes, but how can that translate into our current political moment, where resistance is needed now more than ever?
Some people will say that Black joy and freedom are what we need to combat difficult times. And we certainly do, but at the expense of Black joy, we lose any kind of control or agency when we accept the bare minimum. Visibility isn’t going to free us if we don’t have the structural power to fight back against injustice.
